After many moons of research, we collectively compiled a online magazine that we thought would appeal to girls from ages 16 to 25 based on the 90's phenomenon of the grunge movement.
The magazine contains articles embodying all areas that we researched, including music, lifestyle and fashion.
So click and enjoy!
High Fashion Grunge Veterans
Over time a lot of designers have drawn influence from the grunge aesthetic, whether in a glaringly obvious or manner or by using subtle inspirations.
Marc Jacobs epitomizes the high-end of grunge fashion, with a collection that challenged the subcultures values so much that it contributed to its downfall, but also put it on the fashion map for good.
In 1986 Jacob’s designed his first collection with the Marc Jacobs label, mainly hand knitted jumpers and with the signature being mainly 'classic American sports wear'. In 1989 Jacobs and business partner Robert Duffy joined Perry Ellis. This partnership then sparked a whole new look to Jacob’s collections. His collections seemed more daring and fun compared to when he first started his own label.
Marc Jacob’s collection for Perry Ellis was a series of landmark designs that shocked and thrilled alike, but what exactly what is that got tongues wagging and Jacobs fired? The collection was heavily inspired by the Grunge movement of the late 80’s/early 90’s which was around the time the collection itself was brought out. Marc himself had a grunge style, and this was reflected in the collection, which featured flannel shirts, Doc Martens and other items that made a very obvious visual link to the grunge movement. Jacob’s himself described the collection as “a little fucked-up” (which was probably the reasoning Perry Ellis had when they fired him) and many would have agreed that bringing a dressed down, thrift store look to the catwalk and then trying to charge hundreds of pounds for women to wear it was slightly ludicrous – but critics began talking, a zeitgeist for high-fashion grunge.
Jacob’s collection drew so heavily on grunge that a lot of it was basically just replication of items of clothing from the grunge movement with a slightly high end twist, for example thermals but made out of cashmere, and this is what worried a lot of people, including the powers at Perry Ellis – the collection was TOO similar to the original movement, making it easier to achieve on a lower budget.
Jacob’s began designing for LVMH in 1997. There’s a strict line in Jacobs’s mind separating the Marc Jacobs woman from the woman who is very Vuitton. However, Jacobs continues to inject elements of grunge into his designs for Vuitton, particularly witnessed in his AW11 collection with grunge-influenced oversized sweaters worn over luxurious garments.
This begs the question, is this just a subculture for people who can afford it?
Middle Market Misery
Other, newer, designers are also using a grunge influence in a more modern context – picking at certain areas for inspiration but not committing to it as much as Marc Jacobs did, and there is a reason for this. Real, original grunge died out in the 90’s with the death of Kurt Cobain but it’s influences have stretched out over time to create a modern ‘faux grunge’ – girls who like to dress down and wear a casual ‘thrift store’ look, but are willing to spend a lot of money to do so. They take inspiration from the original movement but with a lot of dark, sheer fabrics as well as a use of leather.
Richard Chai is a new designer, who released his first collection in 2004. Previous to this he worked with Marc Jacobs and helped launch the Marc by Marc Jacobs label. His style is highly tailored and slightly feminine. In 2008 Chai released his menswear line that got him the recognition he has today.
Chai's style is casual but mixes fabrics like silks with wool and tweed. Until recently Chai's collections seemed to be pretty feminine and delicate with no spark of grunge at all, however, his current collection for fall 2011 tells a different story. The picture on the left is from Chai's menswear collection for 2011. The baggy, dull-coloured look on his menswear collection definitely has a grunge influence. His womenswear for 2011 also seems to have turned over a new leaf, with tailored, fitted, and feminine styles being replaced with baggy, oversized knits over trousers with coats. His first collection for womens RTW seemed to be all nude and white with an innocent touch but that has been dirtied up with blacks, dark blue, olives and browns.Because of the price tag, Chai seems to design for the mid-market who are fashion conscious, with dresses around the £350 mark. A great example of a designer who embodies these things is Nicholas K in his Fall 2010 ready-to-wear collection – he exhibits a wide range of sheer tops, leather detailed leggings, heavy boots and versatile flannel shirt/skirts. The darker look is sure to appeal to the younger faux grunge audience, but the ties back to the original movement are obvious.
Nicholas K is a new designer who started in 2009. His debut collection follows the androgynous grunge style. For both males and females, it was quite a casual, easy look with baggy dresses, cardigans, trousers and shirts in neutral cream and heavy shades of black. His collection last year for Spring was still that baggy ‘I don't care’ look, however he introduced coloured dresses which were ripped and teamed them with a heavy knitwear.
The fall collection last year took on a hugely dark and grunge style for both men and women. The models wore heavy black eye makeup, the colour of the clothes was mainly black and dark grey and they still showing the baggy, layered look. This years Spring collection is still grungy and definite similarities can be seen to the previous collection. However, the colours are lighter with a more military look with olive and green shades with browns and greys.
Nicholas K's collections all shout ‘faux grunge’, from the baggy style, layering, use of check and colours. The price range is fairly affordable and you can pick up a shirt for £70. The garments are appealing all together as an outfit. So if you buy the shirt, to get that look people want so badly, you have to buy the whole outfit.
High Street Fakers and Faux's
The transition from mid-market to high street has become blurred thanks to designer collaborations with high-street giants such as Topshop, Urban Outfitters and H&M. This new era of designer-high-street collections gives consumers the availability that they lust after for designer goods, without the price tag. This requires designers to adapt their aesthetic to match the target market for the store they’re selling with.
Despite being one of the largest and most commercial brands on the high street, Topshop is still one of the stores that fashion conscious consumers choose to shop at. Their collaborations with young british designers such as Christopher Kane, Ashish, Ann Sofie-Back and Mark Fast, draw in an audience that may not have shopped at the store otherwise.
All of their products reflect an “effortless grunge” style, perhaps due to the designers perceiving this look as sailable, and an easy look to wear – therefore, making it more available to a wider range of people.
Grunge model turned designer Kate Moss, has had her collections for the store specifically labeled as grunge by fashion giants such as Vogue.
“IT'S time to embrace your inner grunge girl as the latest offering from Kate Moss for Topshop hits the shelves tomorrow - and it comes ripped, studded, shredded, rocky and cool.”
This reinforces the idea that celebrity style will sell. And if celebrities are wearing a style considered “grunge”, consumers will imitate this look and designers will remake and revive this look for the customer.
This imitation does not always work to a stores advantage. All Saints collections when viewed as a whole, fit the criteria for a grunge look. However, with boy-bands such as JLS representing the stores look, their grunge image has become tarnished in the fashion industry. This is making it difficult for mid-market designers such as Nicholas K to sell their product to the right audience. If their collection is looking too “rough and ready” (an “All Saints jeans-tucked-into-boots” combo), a fashionable consumer will associate the look with unfashionable boy-bands rather than the grunge era that may have been the designers original inspiration. This issue for mid-market designers creates a full rotation in that if their product is too expensive for the disheveled look the young consumer is after, they will not be willing to splash out for basic “thrift store” goods. A further problem is that if a designer aims to sell at this level, the quality of their fabrics must increase, consequently decreasing the grunge aesthetic.
Grunge and Faux Grunge: Designers and High Street
Over time a lot of designers have drawn influence from Grunge.. whether glaringly obvious or subtle inspirations and Marc Jacob’s collection for Perry Ellis was a series of landmark designs that shocked and thrilled alike, but what exactly what is that got tongues wagging and Jacobs fired? The collection was heavily inspired by the Grunge movement of the late 80’s/early 90’s, around the time the collection itself was brought out, and featured flannel shirts, Doc Martens and other items which made a very obvious visual link to the grunge movement. Jacob’s himself described the collection as “a little fucked-up” (which was probably the reasoning Perry Ellis had when they fired him) and many would have agreed that bringing a dressed down, thrift store look to the catwalk and then trying to charge hundreds of pounds for women to wear it was slightly ludicrous – but at least the critics loved it. Jacob’s collection drew so heavily on grunge that a lot of it was basically just replication of items of clothing from the grunge movement with a slightly high end twist, for example thermals but made out of cashmere, and i think this is what worried a lot of people including the powers at Perry Ellis – that the collection was TOO similar to the original movement, making it easier to achieve on a lower budget.
Other, newer, designers are also using a grunge influence in a more modern context – picking at certain areas for inspiration but not committing to it as much as Marc Jacobs did, and there is a reason for this. Real, original grunge died out in the 90’s with the death of Kurt Cobain but it’s influences have stretched out over time to create a modern ‘faux grunge’ – girls who like to dress down and wear a casual ‘thrift store’ look but are willing to spend a lot of money to do so – which takes inspiration from the original movement but with a lot of dark, sheer fabrics as well as a use of leather. A great example of a designer who embodies these things is Nicholas K in his Fall 2010 ready-to-wear collection – he exhibits a wide range of sheer tops, leather detailed leggings, heavy boots and versatile flannel shirt/skirts. The darker look is sure to appeal to the younger faux grunge audience but the ties back to the original movement are clear to see.
Finally, faux grunge has become to commercial and desirable as a subculture that high street brands such as Topshop, H&M, Religion and All Saints have catered to the needs of a lot of faux grungers out there by making it more widely accessible to those who don’t have to cash to throw at designer brands. All Saints in particular is embracing the faux grunge feel with a lot of clothes sporting a ripped/torn or deconstructed look, as well as the expected sheer materials and various leather items. But what makes All Saints interesting is the fact that they cater to such a wide audience in the way that JLS, a group who would never be associated with faux grunge in anyway, are often sighted dressed head to toe in All Saints clothing. Which begs the question – is faux grunge only truly accessible to those with the money to spend on designers who are committed to it, as opposed to high street stores which are just going along with it to keep the masses happy?
Did Grunge Die With Kurt?
The grunge movement of the early 1990’s was a backlash against the light disco-pop of the 80’s, giving angsty teenagers everywhere an outlet. This music orientated scene resulted in an affordable fashion which was available to the masses due to it’s low maintenance aesthetic. This was tainted when Marc Jacobs catapulted grunge fashion into the mainstream, with a high fashion grunge for Perry Ellis in 1993, undermining the cultures core values. Combined with the death of Nirvana front man and idol, Kurt Cobain, the diffusion of grunge began. So what is left of grunge today?
New Grunge - This classifies the underground scene who continue to carry core grunge values without the fashion aesthetic. Bands include The Wutars and Warpaint. An employee of today’s music scene said, “I have worked at Rough Trade since the store opened and never have we had a “Grunge” specific music section. Stereotypical grunge bands have always been slotted into other genres such as post-punk and new wave.” This leads to a conclusion that Grunge was a culture and not a specific genre of music. Therefore, since the culture has died, new bands have had to adopt different music styles e.g. Indie, as there is no longer a fan base for 90’s grunge.
Faux Grunge – Original grunger Kate Moss could arguably have pioneered this ‘look’, stemming from her early 90’s ‘heroin chic’ dishevelled style. Her look has influenced the London socialite scene today. Offspring of rock stars and rebel heiresses including Alice Dellal and the Geldof daughters who have embraced a luxe-grunge aesthetic – taking the original anti-fashion and giving it a make-over. Alice Dellal has taken this a step further, starting her own band ‘Thrush Metal”, along with other heiresses and models. It’s become a novelty - all about the aesthetic. She even boasts that they “can’t play their instruments”.
These role models have influenced a younger generation of fashion-conscious consumers, specifically gig and festival-goers. You can dress up to match your event, as this look is so obtainable. There is almost a festival grunge check-list:
- · Flannel shirt
- · Distressed denim shorts
- · Doc Martens
A good example of this total diffusion of grunge fashion into the mainstream is pop princess Pixie Lott’s contrast ranges for the commercial Lipsy; Pixie Party and Pixie Festival.
Grunge has come so far that the original “comfort over chic” look has become a global fashion trend. The culture has diffused leaving remnants of its original self in modern fashion. Original grungers have grown up.
Jose Luengo Interview
Jose Luengo is in two Spanish bands and was heavily involved in the 90's grunge scene.
Do you think there are any bands at the moment that you can define as grunge?
The answer is no. I was a part of the 90's grunge scene, i was really involved in this movement and i can assure you that grunge doesn't exist anymore. The bands and the aesthetic are dead and in my opinion grunge isn't going to make a comeback.
There are some bands that have the same sound of the 90;s in Seattle but they aren't grunge. Music, as well as the social context have changed and developed and we have different values to live by.
But anyway, the first question you have to ask yourself is "What is grunge?" because grunge bands don't have anything to do with each other. Peral Jam, Nirvana, Mudhoney, Dinosaur Jr or Sonic Youth... they all sound completely different are were still grouped as "grunge" anyway.
I think grunge involved a musical explosion, a way of thinking at the time and that's really difficult to get back.
Do you think there are any bands at the moment that you can define as grunge?
The answer is no. I was a part of the 90's grunge scene, i was really involved in this movement and i can assure you that grunge doesn't exist anymore. The bands and the aesthetic are dead and in my opinion grunge isn't going to make a comeback.
There are some bands that have the same sound of the 90;s in Seattle but they aren't grunge. Music, as well as the social context have changed and developed and we have different values to live by.
But anyway, the first question you have to ask yourself is "What is grunge?" because grunge bands don't have anything to do with each other. Peral Jam, Nirvana, Mudhoney, Dinosaur Jr or Sonic Youth... they all sound completely different are were still grouped as "grunge" anyway.
I think grunge involved a musical explosion, a way of thinking at the time and that's really difficult to get back.
Rough Trade Interview
We interviewed an employee of music store Rough Trade, on her views of the Grunge music scene.
Is there a Grunge genre in this store?
No, not that i'm aware of .
Has there ever been a Grunge genre?
I've worked here since opening and there has never been a section for it. All bands that may fit into this categories have been put into genres such as Post-Punk and New Wave.
Do you think there is a Grunge subculture/music scene today?
I don't think so, no. There are a few bands that have that type of sound but they would probably also fit into the indie scene.
Is there a Grunge genre in this store?
No, not that i'm aware of .
Has there ever been a Grunge genre?
I've worked here since opening and there has never been a section for it. All bands that may fit into this categories have been put into genres such as Post-Punk and New Wave.
Do you think there is a Grunge subculture/music scene today?
I don't think so, no. There are a few bands that have that type of sound but they would probably also fit into the indie scene.
GRUNGE-The Modern Grunge?
In our weekly seminar our group discussed the existence of Grunge in the 00's. Was the music still alive? If so, where? How had the music changed? We also discussed it in terms of fashion. Was the anti-fashion statement now a popular trend? Who was/is wearing it?
These questions led us to consider the two current types of grunge we believe exist. "Modern Grunge"- the style of music may have changed, less angst, however still intelligent in-terms of composition and lyrics. We also thought about the fashion of these bands. If they weren't playing typical "grunge" or dressing in the standard look, then were they still grunge? I believe that if a band's passion is for the music and not the "band look" then they are likely to have to the same standards and the original grungers. I challenged this idea by going to a gig of a band i had never heard and new nothing about, an unsigned current band. Their music could be described as a mash up of folk, indie and acoustic. Not very grunge. However, their look would certainly not have fashionistas jumping out of their seats. Loose fitting jeans, converse and slogan t-shirts sum up the musical bunch. It was all about the music for these guys, just like it was for idols in the early 90's. There were no woes about fitting a generic "i'm in a band" look.
I believe there are still bands out there doing it solely for the music, even if they don't fit the grunge critique.
These questions led us to consider the two current types of grunge we believe exist. "Modern Grunge"- the style of music may have changed, less angst, however still intelligent in-terms of composition and lyrics. We also thought about the fashion of these bands. If they weren't playing typical "grunge" or dressing in the standard look, then were they still grunge? I believe that if a band's passion is for the music and not the "band look" then they are likely to have to the same standards and the original grungers. I challenged this idea by going to a gig of a band i had never heard and new nothing about, an unsigned current band. Their music could be described as a mash up of folk, indie and acoustic. Not very grunge. However, their look would certainly not have fashionistas jumping out of their seats. Loose fitting jeans, converse and slogan t-shirts sum up the musical bunch. It was all about the music for these guys, just like it was for idols in the early 90's. There were no woes about fitting a generic "i'm in a band" look.
I believe there are still bands out there doing it solely for the music, even if they don't fit the grunge critique.
GRUNGE- Menswear
GRUNGE STYLE MENSWEAR 2010/11
Fall Winter 2010 - 2011
Fashion seems to be on a consistent 20-year cycle. That is, each season the styles from approximately two decades prior can be seen interpreted on the runways for modern fashion lovers. So now in 2010, it's right on time for fashion from the 1990's to be coming back to the forefront of style consciousness.There are a wide of variety of things that characterize the '90s, but one that stands out among the rest is Grunge. Twenty years ago the grunge fashion movement was fueled by a music genre of the same name, whose pinnacle icon was the moody rock star Kurt Cobain. Along with his band Nirvana, Cobain had an entire generation dressing in ripped jeans, dingy t-shirts, and nubby flannels.
So how do you get the grunge look?
Let's start from the top: The beanie is great for the cool temperatures of fall and winter, but wearing this style of hat isn't always about keep warm. To wear it grunge-style choose black or another dark neutral. It should fit kind of loose so that you can push it back to sit behind the crown of your head. This look was seen on the Fall/Winter 2010-11 designer runways. From left to right: Marni, Kris Van Assche, John Varvatos.
Next, the quintessential grunge element - the plaid shirt. Although in the '90s it was almost always a flannel shirt, the modern take allows for lighter weights, like cotton and linen. No matter what the material, however, you should definitely try tying it around your waist. This move can take almost any outfit from plain the grungy in a couple seconds flat!
Tying shirts around your waist is so much associated with grunge style, that the shirt needn't even be plaid. Giuliano Fujiwara and Galliano do a classic take on the waist shirt, while Jean Paul Gaultier makes it extra clean and modern with a solid color tee.
As a general rule, nothing in grunge style should look brand new (even if it is) or freshly pressed. Ripped and otherwise distressed jeans fit into the style perfectly. The good news is that you can achieve this very affordably, by going at a pair of your old jeans with some scissors and a scrub brush. Another alternative is to visit your local thrift store. But if you’d like a high-end label and are willing to spend the cash, there are plenty of options from the designer runways. From left to right: DSquared2, D&G, William Rast.
Finally, your footwear is a big part of your overall grunge look. In the spring and summer seasons some well-worn Chuck Taylors or Vans will do the trick, but in the cold months you may want something to provide you with a bit more protection from the elements. Your solution: combat boots. Visit an army surplus store to see if you can find these at affordable prices. Otherwise, pick up a designer pair, as seen on the runways of (L to R) Ann Demeulemeester, Neil Barrett, and Dolce & Gabbana.
GRUNGE-Lost in the modern mainstream?
As many may, or may not, realize the genre of grunge was never about fashion or presentation. It was originally the raw, and often totally filthy, expression of a generations angst and discontent with society and prejudice. The things they stood for were opinionated and in some cases even slightly admirable but with the grunge scene crossing over into mainstream and then fading out again but leaving traces of it’s style, have all the original values been lost?
If you stroll into any topshop, new look, ubran outfitters, all saints or H&M (and many more) it will only be a number of seconds before your eyes are assulted with an array of checked/fannel shirts - for both men and women. But where did this trend come from? It didn’t just appear over night, oh no. Flannel shirts and outdoor wear were a large characteristic of the grunge movement, especially as the musicians shunned expensive shows and presentations and just wanted to ‘rock out’, never being conscious of the fashion based desicions they were really making. So, when grunge went mainstream with bands like Soundgarden, Sonic Youth and Nirvana forcing their way into peoples lives and onto the airwaves in the late 80’s, the clothes they wore and the attitude they wore them with became readily available to the public. But as Britpop emerged, grunge was all but forced out of the mainstream just leaving behind a style as their legacy.Checked and flannel shirts became very big again a few summers ago, as they were marketed as ideal festival wear as they were easily paired with shorts or leggings. The wearing of these shirts at festivals still vaguely reflects grunge in a way, because festivals are a raw and dirty few days where people appreciate music.
But more recently another subculture has embraced some elements of grunge, such as checked shirts and Dr. Martens, as a large and almost signature part of their indentities and this subculture is the modern hipster. Congregating largely around the Shoreditch, Hackney and Hoxton areas of East London, Hipsters are an ever growing subculture who seem to be the evolved 2006 emo kids. Hipsters embrace metrosexuality the males are often very well groomed and well styled, as are the females. The hipster subculture seems to rely heavily on symbols and almost occult imagery such as the all seeing eye, nebulas, triangles and the st. peters cross. There is no real link to the grunge ideals in the Hipster subculture, just some elements of their style and attitude: for example a hipster male may pair a flannel shirt with a rolled up pair of chinos, a varsity jacket and boating shoes, the overall look will on the surface come off as very casual, almost just ‘thrown on’ but in reality it will be very stylized and thought out. Perhaps because of their emo past they feel they can relate to the angst of the grunge movement?
So if Kurt were still here today, do you think he would appreciate the over styled, material driven subculture who so heavily have relied on his identity to make their own?
GRUNGE- group opinions
"Grunge is something which i have always been well aware of due to my dad's love for Nirvana and the way that he would play me their music when i was younger and i never really took it nor did i really understand. As i've got older i've watched grunge fashion cross over into the mainstream and the highstreet and more recently a lot of the elements of grunge have been embraced by modern hipsters - turning a dirty unpolished expression of angst into a stylish and slightly pretencious statement about fashion, social standing and lifestyle and, personally, it's something i want to fully embrace and love to see out on the streets." Tahlia
To be honest this is the first time I have sat down and listened to any sort of grunge music and to be honest im not the biggest fan. Although I am not a fan of the grunge music I find the history of grunge interesting the fashion also. The fashion of checked shirts, ripped jeans and the cant be bothered look is a popular look and I was unaware after seeing this in the street numerous times that it linked to the grunge sub culture. So after researching grunge I feel I have learnt a great deal about a sub culture I knew existed but knew nothing about." Rebecca.
'When I was a kid, my sister and my brother listened to bands like Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Screeming Trees, they had the whole grunge look and I've been influence by it all my life because of this. It was easy for me to distinguish a grunge from another style but I never kind of knew why. This project helped me to know more about the history of grunge, the music, and the style." Lucia
"the grunge sub-culture has always been interesting to me, stemming mainly from the music after being introduced to Nirvana by a friend a while back. I've always had a rough understanding of the fashion that accompanies the scene but this project has led me to learn further how it influences the fashion industry in a big way. Having leading designers such as Marc Jacobs creating pieces which fit in with the scene is really interesting to me and the people within this group consider themselves anti-fashion. Some of my style icons such has Mary-Kate Olsen and Alice Dellal have also been associated with the grunge scene too which may explain my attraction to it. I'm looking forward to seeing how this sub-culture still fits in in 2011 and especially in london." Kerry
"I really love the way that people wear their clothes and how they look like..Also I can say that the history of grunge is really interesting and the history of fashion too.But to tell you the truth I don't like this kind of music so much, I like Nirvana but I am not so big fun of them..Through the years I can see that some designers they are still using these kind of style and mixing their clothes even in the fashion shows.Finally I believe that sometimes I do use some of their fashion tips and mix it with my style..However, in general I like grunge and I find it really interesting as a subculture.." Joanna
"I have never heard about GRUNGE subculture before researching it for a Generic Fashion project.
It was very interesting to know something new for me for example that inspirators of that subculture were Nirvana and vocalist Kurt Cobain, bands Sonic Youth and L7. That Marc Jacobs and Calvin Klein also using that style in their works. After the research I understood one thing that GRUNGE is returning now and lots and lots of young teenagers who like a new rebel style comparing it with GRUNGE.
Moreover grunge style clothes not so expensive they are comfortable and durable.
I can’t say that after research I became big fan of that subculture but I like it and I think that it has a right to exist." Jevgenijus
"Grunge fashion can be seen as just another anti-fashion - a trend brought into the mainstream by an over-indulged generation X backlashing against society. However, to me, original grunge epitomises the look people are still trying to achieve today - effortlessly cool. Even though it had short lived popularity as a subculture it has certainly imprinted itself into modern fashion in an interesting way. I grew up in the 90s listening to my older brother play grunge music like Nirvana, Pearl Jam and Stone Temple Pilots, a genre which has a lot more substance than the mass-produced dance and RnB that fills our charts today, its a shame that we don't have a subculture that's on par with grunge today." Julia
To be honest this is the first time I have sat down and listened to any sort of grunge music and to be honest im not the biggest fan. Although I am not a fan of the grunge music I find the history of grunge interesting the fashion also. The fashion of checked shirts, ripped jeans and the cant be bothered look is a popular look and I was unaware after seeing this in the street numerous times that it linked to the grunge sub culture. So after researching grunge I feel I have learnt a great deal about a sub culture I knew existed but knew nothing about." Rebecca.
'When I was a kid, my sister and my brother listened to bands like Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Screeming Trees, they had the whole grunge look and I've been influence by it all my life because of this. It was easy for me to distinguish a grunge from another style but I never kind of knew why. This project helped me to know more about the history of grunge, the music, and the style." Lucia
"the grunge sub-culture has always been interesting to me, stemming mainly from the music after being introduced to Nirvana by a friend a while back. I've always had a rough understanding of the fashion that accompanies the scene but this project has led me to learn further how it influences the fashion industry in a big way. Having leading designers such as Marc Jacobs creating pieces which fit in with the scene is really interesting to me and the people within this group consider themselves anti-fashion. Some of my style icons such has Mary-Kate Olsen and Alice Dellal have also been associated with the grunge scene too which may explain my attraction to it. I'm looking forward to seeing how this sub-culture still fits in in 2011 and especially in london." Kerry
"I really love the way that people wear their clothes and how they look like..Also I can say that the history of grunge is really interesting and the history of fashion too.But to tell you the truth I don't like this kind of music so much, I like Nirvana but I am not so big fun of them..Through the years I can see that some designers they are still using these kind of style and mixing their clothes even in the fashion shows.Finally I believe that sometimes I do use some of their fashion tips and mix it with my style..However, in general I like grunge and I find it really interesting as a subculture.." Joanna
"I have never heard about GRUNGE subculture before researching it for a Generic Fashion project.
It was very interesting to know something new for me for example that inspirators of that subculture were Nirvana and vocalist Kurt Cobain, bands Sonic Youth and L7. That Marc Jacobs and Calvin Klein also using that style in their works. After the research I understood one thing that GRUNGE is returning now and lots and lots of young teenagers who like a new rebel style comparing it with GRUNGE.
Moreover grunge style clothes not so expensive they are comfortable and durable.
I can’t say that after research I became big fan of that subculture but I like it and I think that it has a right to exist." Jevgenijus
"Grunge fashion can be seen as just another anti-fashion - a trend brought into the mainstream by an over-indulged generation X backlashing against society. However, to me, original grunge epitomises the look people are still trying to achieve today - effortlessly cool. Even though it had short lived popularity as a subculture it has certainly imprinted itself into modern fashion in an interesting way. I grew up in the 90s listening to my older brother play grunge music like Nirvana, Pearl Jam and Stone Temple Pilots, a genre which has a lot more substance than the mass-produced dance and RnB that fills our charts today, its a shame that we don't have a subculture that's on par with grunge today." Julia
GRUNGE- Fashion Shops
After researching how grunge began, I started to think about the link with fashion.
Grunge fashion was essentially a mix of punk ethic and outdoor wear. Hard, durable fabrics that didn't cost much and that you could wear for years. Essentially, the grunge look grew organically - there was no attempt to consciously come up with a style. The grunge look just grew into itself.
Layers, flannel shirts, anything plaid, tartan kilts, flowery cotton dresses, hoodies, ripped denim, baggy clothes, charity shop / thrift store clothes were their signature.
As the Grunge sub-culture values themselves on rebelling against fashion, discussing what sort of shops could relate to their group becomes difficult.
-B Store is one of them, okay that it isn't a charity shop or cheap, but it has flannel shirts, ripped jeans and baggy clothes!
-A second shop that sprang to my mind is Dover Street Market, specifically for their basement. This department stocks brands such as Supreme which are often related to Skate culture, however the line between these two styles is quite blurred in some aspects e.g. flannel shirts and bobble hats. Although these clothes are highly priced, they give off a feeling of "refined grunge" to me.
-Thirdly, the Urban Outfitters mens department is fitting. Their loose fitting tee's and "Renewal" section could be suitable for this type of style due to their bulky jackets and worn pieces.
This has shown that this Grunge look is now very commercial and easily available... so what makes you a real Grunger?
Grunge fashion was essentially a mix of punk ethic and outdoor wear. Hard, durable fabrics that didn't cost much and that you could wear for years. Essentially, the grunge look grew organically - there was no attempt to consciously come up with a style. The grunge look just grew into itself.
Layers, flannel shirts, anything plaid, tartan kilts, flowery cotton dresses, hoodies, ripped denim, baggy clothes, charity shop / thrift store clothes were their signature.
As the Grunge sub-culture values themselves on rebelling against fashion, discussing what sort of shops could relate to their group becomes difficult.
-B Store is one of them, okay that it isn't a charity shop or cheap, but it has flannel shirts, ripped jeans and baggy clothes!
-A second shop that sprang to my mind is Dover Street Market, specifically for their basement. This department stocks brands such as Supreme which are often related to Skate culture, however the line between these two styles is quite blurred in some aspects e.g. flannel shirts and bobble hats. Although these clothes are highly priced, they give off a feeling of "refined grunge" to me.
-Thirdly, the Urban Outfitters mens department is fitting. Their loose fitting tee's and "Renewal" section could be suitable for this type of style due to their bulky jackets and worn pieces.
This has shown that this Grunge look is now very commercial and easily available... so what makes you a real Grunger?
GRUNGE-Transatlantic Trend
The breakthrough of independent music with bands such as Nirvana changed the music scene of the 1990s. Seattle was nicknamed "the new Liverpool", leaving the UK behind in the music popularity race. Britain was heavily into the Britpop scene at this time although some bands such as Headswim managed to make UK grunge waves of their own.
GRUNGE-Music
Although grunge came of age at the beginning of the 1990s, the rock subculture actually had its roots in the mid 1980s in Seattle, as an underground rock music style that mixed punk and heavy metal. It broke worldwide thanks largely to Nirvana, and flared briefly before burning out in the middle of the 1990s, but remains an iconic chapter in rock history.
The early grunge movement coalesced around Seattle independent record label Sub Pop in the late 1980s, and began commercially releasing singles and LPs by the groups.
This movement was not actually lead by Nirvana as many have said when they released "Nevermind" in September of 1991 but actually went back to other Seattle bands like Melvins and Mudhoney. It was due in large part to Nirvana and Pearl Jam that the movement came to the forefront of mainstream success.
Grunge is generally characterized by a sludgy guitar sound that uses a high level of distortion, fuzz and feedback effects. Grunge fuses elements of hardcore punk and heavy metal.
The style and the look of the called 'grunge' did not evolve out of a conscious attempt to create an appealing fashion.
-Bands.
NIRVANA
PEARL JAM
MUDHONEY
Other important bands are Stone Temple Pilots, Alice in Chains, The Melvins, Green River, Screaming Trees, Sound Garden, L7, Seven Mary 3, Bush, The vines, Hole, The Gits, Tad, Mother love Bone, Skin Yard, Mad Season, Temple of the Dog, Fastbacks, Smashing Pumpkins and 7 Year Bitch.
The early grunge movement coalesced around Seattle independent record label Sub Pop in the late 1980s, and began commercially releasing singles and LPs by the groups.
This movement was not actually lead by Nirvana as many have said when they released "Nevermind" in September of 1991 but actually went back to other Seattle bands like Melvins and Mudhoney. It was due in large part to Nirvana and Pearl Jam that the movement came to the forefront of mainstream success.
Grunge is generally characterized by a sludgy guitar sound that uses a high level of distortion, fuzz and feedback effects. Grunge fuses elements of hardcore punk and heavy metal.
The style and the look of the called 'grunge' did not evolve out of a conscious attempt to create an appealing fashion.
-Bands.
NIRVANA
PEARL JAM
MUDHONEY
Other important bands are Stone Temple Pilots, Alice in Chains, The Melvins, Green River, Screaming Trees, Sound Garden, L7, Seven Mary 3, Bush, The vines, Hole, The Gits, Tad, Mother love Bone, Skin Yard, Mad Season, Temple of the Dog, Fastbacks, Smashing Pumpkins and 7 Year Bitch.
GRUNGE- Social Attitudes
The scruffy fashion of grunge was symbolic of their general disenchantment with the state of society, discomfort with social prejudices and perceptions of Generation X. This is further exemplified in the lyrics of grunge music - typically angst-filled, often addressing themes such as social alienation, apathy, confinement, and a desire for freedom (bearing similarities to those addressed by punk rock musicians at the time). Music critic Simon Reynolds said in 1992 that "there's a feeling of burnout in the culture at large. Kids are depressed about the future."
This rebellion against fashion, however, contradicted itself as it hit the mainstream - as has happened to many sub-cultures before. When grunge became a 'trend', it became fashionable to wear flannel shirts and Doc Martin boots became popularized. Stereotypical items became mass-produced and stylized and the thrift-store shopping, unwashed hair idealisation that grunge had - of not conciously caring about creating an appealing fashion - lost all its basis - which could subsequently be a reason for its decline in the latter half of the 1990s. Grunge is now a source of inspiration for many designers and has become a popular modern look.
Original Grunge -
This rebellion against fashion, however, contradicted itself as it hit the mainstream - as has happened to many sub-cultures before. When grunge became a 'trend', it became fashionable to wear flannel shirts and Doc Martin boots became popularized. Stereotypical items became mass-produced and stylized and the thrift-store shopping, unwashed hair idealisation that grunge had - of not conciously caring about creating an appealing fashion - lost all its basis - which could subsequently be a reason for its decline in the latter half of the 1990s. Grunge is now a source of inspiration for many designers and has become a popular modern look.
Original Grunge -
Nirvana
Stoke Newington grunge festival, 1993
Seattle Grungers
Modern Grunge -
Mary-Kate Olsen
Rhianna
Lindsey Lohan
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)