Did Grunge Die With Kurt?
The grunge movement of the early 1990’s was a backlash against the light disco-pop of the 80’s, giving angsty teenagers everywhere an outlet. This music orientated scene resulted in an affordable fashion which was available to the masses due to it’s low maintenance aesthetic. This was tainted when Marc Jacobs catapulted grunge fashion into the mainstream, with a high fashion grunge for Perry Ellis in 1993, undermining the cultures core values. Combined with the death of Nirvana front man and idol, Kurt Cobain, the diffusion of grunge began. So what is left of grunge today?
New Grunge - This classifies the underground scene who continue to carry core grunge values without the fashion aesthetic. Bands include The Wutars and Warpaint. An employee of today’s music scene said, “I have worked at Rough Trade since the store opened and never have we had a “Grunge” specific music section. Stereotypical grunge bands have always been slotted into other genres such as post-punk and new wave.” This leads to a conclusion that Grunge was a culture and not a specific genre of music. Therefore, since the culture has died, new bands have had to adopt different music styles e.g. Indie, as there is no longer a fan base for 90’s grunge.
Faux Grunge – Original grunger Kate Moss could arguably have pioneered this ‘look’, stemming from her early 90’s ‘heroin chic’ dishevelled style. Her look has influenced the London socialite scene today. Offspring of rock stars and rebel heiresses including Alice Dellal and the Geldof daughters who have embraced a luxe-grunge aesthetic – taking the original anti-fashion and giving it a make-over. Alice Dellal has taken this a step further, starting her own band ‘Thrush Metal”, along with other heiresses and models. It’s become a novelty - all about the aesthetic. She even boasts that they “can’t play their instruments”.
These role models have influenced a younger generation of fashion-conscious consumers, specifically gig and festival-goers. You can dress up to match your event, as this look is so obtainable. There is almost a festival grunge check-list:
- · Flannel shirt
- · Distressed denim shorts
- · Doc Martens
A good example of this total diffusion of grunge fashion into the mainstream is pop princess Pixie Lott’s contrast ranges for the commercial Lipsy; Pixie Party and Pixie Festival.
Grunge has come so far that the original “comfort over chic” look has become a global fashion trend. The culture has diffused leaving remnants of its original self in modern fashion. Original grungers have grown up.
Jose Luengo Interview
Jose Luengo is in two Spanish bands and was heavily involved in the 90's grunge scene.
Do you think there are any bands at the moment that you can define as grunge?
The answer is no. I was a part of the 90's grunge scene, i was really involved in this movement and i can assure you that grunge doesn't exist anymore. The bands and the aesthetic are dead and in my opinion grunge isn't going to make a comeback.
There are some bands that have the same sound of the 90;s in Seattle but they aren't grunge. Music, as well as the social context have changed and developed and we have different values to live by.
But anyway, the first question you have to ask yourself is "What is grunge?" because grunge bands don't have anything to do with each other. Peral Jam, Nirvana, Mudhoney, Dinosaur Jr or Sonic Youth... they all sound completely different are were still grouped as "grunge" anyway.
I think grunge involved a musical explosion, a way of thinking at the time and that's really difficult to get back.
Do you think there are any bands at the moment that you can define as grunge?
The answer is no. I was a part of the 90's grunge scene, i was really involved in this movement and i can assure you that grunge doesn't exist anymore. The bands and the aesthetic are dead and in my opinion grunge isn't going to make a comeback.
There are some bands that have the same sound of the 90;s in Seattle but they aren't grunge. Music, as well as the social context have changed and developed and we have different values to live by.
But anyway, the first question you have to ask yourself is "What is grunge?" because grunge bands don't have anything to do with each other. Peral Jam, Nirvana, Mudhoney, Dinosaur Jr or Sonic Youth... they all sound completely different are were still grouped as "grunge" anyway.
I think grunge involved a musical explosion, a way of thinking at the time and that's really difficult to get back.
Rough Trade Interview
We interviewed an employee of music store Rough Trade, on her views of the Grunge music scene.
Is there a Grunge genre in this store?
No, not that i'm aware of .
Has there ever been a Grunge genre?
I've worked here since opening and there has never been a section for it. All bands that may fit into this categories have been put into genres such as Post-Punk and New Wave.
Do you think there is a Grunge subculture/music scene today?
I don't think so, no. There are a few bands that have that type of sound but they would probably also fit into the indie scene.
Is there a Grunge genre in this store?
No, not that i'm aware of .
Has there ever been a Grunge genre?
I've worked here since opening and there has never been a section for it. All bands that may fit into this categories have been put into genres such as Post-Punk and New Wave.
Do you think there is a Grunge subculture/music scene today?
I don't think so, no. There are a few bands that have that type of sound but they would probably also fit into the indie scene.
GRUNGE-The Modern Grunge?
In our weekly seminar our group discussed the existence of Grunge in the 00's. Was the music still alive? If so, where? How had the music changed? We also discussed it in terms of fashion. Was the anti-fashion statement now a popular trend? Who was/is wearing it?
These questions led us to consider the two current types of grunge we believe exist. "Modern Grunge"- the style of music may have changed, less angst, however still intelligent in-terms of composition and lyrics. We also thought about the fashion of these bands. If they weren't playing typical "grunge" or dressing in the standard look, then were they still grunge? I believe that if a band's passion is for the music and not the "band look" then they are likely to have to the same standards and the original grungers. I challenged this idea by going to a gig of a band i had never heard and new nothing about, an unsigned current band. Their music could be described as a mash up of folk, indie and acoustic. Not very grunge. However, their look would certainly not have fashionistas jumping out of their seats. Loose fitting jeans, converse and slogan t-shirts sum up the musical bunch. It was all about the music for these guys, just like it was for idols in the early 90's. There were no woes about fitting a generic "i'm in a band" look.
I believe there are still bands out there doing it solely for the music, even if they don't fit the grunge critique.
These questions led us to consider the two current types of grunge we believe exist. "Modern Grunge"- the style of music may have changed, less angst, however still intelligent in-terms of composition and lyrics. We also thought about the fashion of these bands. If they weren't playing typical "grunge" or dressing in the standard look, then were they still grunge? I believe that if a band's passion is for the music and not the "band look" then they are likely to have to the same standards and the original grungers. I challenged this idea by going to a gig of a band i had never heard and new nothing about, an unsigned current band. Their music could be described as a mash up of folk, indie and acoustic. Not very grunge. However, their look would certainly not have fashionistas jumping out of their seats. Loose fitting jeans, converse and slogan t-shirts sum up the musical bunch. It was all about the music for these guys, just like it was for idols in the early 90's. There were no woes about fitting a generic "i'm in a band" look.
I believe there are still bands out there doing it solely for the music, even if they don't fit the grunge critique.
GRUNGE- Menswear
GRUNGE STYLE MENSWEAR 2010/11
Fall Winter 2010 - 2011
Fashion seems to be on a consistent 20-year cycle. That is, each season the styles from approximately two decades prior can be seen interpreted on the runways for modern fashion lovers. So now in 2010, it's right on time for fashion from the 1990's to be coming back to the forefront of style consciousness.There are a wide of variety of things that characterize the '90s, but one that stands out among the rest is Grunge. Twenty years ago the grunge fashion movement was fueled by a music genre of the same name, whose pinnacle icon was the moody rock star Kurt Cobain. Along with his band Nirvana, Cobain had an entire generation dressing in ripped jeans, dingy t-shirts, and nubby flannels.
So how do you get the grunge look?
Let's start from the top: The beanie is great for the cool temperatures of fall and winter, but wearing this style of hat isn't always about keep warm. To wear it grunge-style choose black or another dark neutral. It should fit kind of loose so that you can push it back to sit behind the crown of your head. This look was seen on the Fall/Winter 2010-11 designer runways. From left to right: Marni, Kris Van Assche, John Varvatos.
Next, the quintessential grunge element - the plaid shirt. Although in the '90s it was almost always a flannel shirt, the modern take allows for lighter weights, like cotton and linen. No matter what the material, however, you should definitely try tying it around your waist. This move can take almost any outfit from plain the grungy in a couple seconds flat!
Tying shirts around your waist is so much associated with grunge style, that the shirt needn't even be plaid. Giuliano Fujiwara and Galliano do a classic take on the waist shirt, while Jean Paul Gaultier makes it extra clean and modern with a solid color tee.
As a general rule, nothing in grunge style should look brand new (even if it is) or freshly pressed. Ripped and otherwise distressed jeans fit into the style perfectly. The good news is that you can achieve this very affordably, by going at a pair of your old jeans with some scissors and a scrub brush. Another alternative is to visit your local thrift store. But if you’d like a high-end label and are willing to spend the cash, there are plenty of options from the designer runways. From left to right: DSquared2, D&G, William Rast.
Finally, your footwear is a big part of your overall grunge look. In the spring and summer seasons some well-worn Chuck Taylors or Vans will do the trick, but in the cold months you may want something to provide you with a bit more protection from the elements. Your solution: combat boots. Visit an army surplus store to see if you can find these at affordable prices. Otherwise, pick up a designer pair, as seen on the runways of (L to R) Ann Demeulemeester, Neil Barrett, and Dolce & Gabbana.
GRUNGE-Lost in the modern mainstream?
As many may, or may not, realize the genre of grunge was never about fashion or presentation. It was originally the raw, and often totally filthy, expression of a generations angst and discontent with society and prejudice. The things they stood for were opinionated and in some cases even slightly admirable but with the grunge scene crossing over into mainstream and then fading out again but leaving traces of it’s style, have all the original values been lost?
If you stroll into any topshop, new look, ubran outfitters, all saints or H&M (and many more) it will only be a number of seconds before your eyes are assulted with an array of checked/fannel shirts - for both men and women. But where did this trend come from? It didn’t just appear over night, oh no. Flannel shirts and outdoor wear were a large characteristic of the grunge movement, especially as the musicians shunned expensive shows and presentations and just wanted to ‘rock out’, never being conscious of the fashion based desicions they were really making. So, when grunge went mainstream with bands like Soundgarden, Sonic Youth and Nirvana forcing their way into peoples lives and onto the airwaves in the late 80’s, the clothes they wore and the attitude they wore them with became readily available to the public. But as Britpop emerged, grunge was all but forced out of the mainstream just leaving behind a style as their legacy.Checked and flannel shirts became very big again a few summers ago, as they were marketed as ideal festival wear as they were easily paired with shorts or leggings. The wearing of these shirts at festivals still vaguely reflects grunge in a way, because festivals are a raw and dirty few days where people appreciate music.
But more recently another subculture has embraced some elements of grunge, such as checked shirts and Dr. Martens, as a large and almost signature part of their indentities and this subculture is the modern hipster. Congregating largely around the Shoreditch, Hackney and Hoxton areas of East London, Hipsters are an ever growing subculture who seem to be the evolved 2006 emo kids. Hipsters embrace metrosexuality the males are often very well groomed and well styled, as are the females. The hipster subculture seems to rely heavily on symbols and almost occult imagery such as the all seeing eye, nebulas, triangles and the st. peters cross. There is no real link to the grunge ideals in the Hipster subculture, just some elements of their style and attitude: for example a hipster male may pair a flannel shirt with a rolled up pair of chinos, a varsity jacket and boating shoes, the overall look will on the surface come off as very casual, almost just ‘thrown on’ but in reality it will be very stylized and thought out. Perhaps because of their emo past they feel they can relate to the angst of the grunge movement?
So if Kurt were still here today, do you think he would appreciate the over styled, material driven subculture who so heavily have relied on his identity to make their own?
GRUNGE- group opinions
"Grunge is something which i have always been well aware of due to my dad's love for Nirvana and the way that he would play me their music when i was younger and i never really took it nor did i really understand. As i've got older i've watched grunge fashion cross over into the mainstream and the highstreet and more recently a lot of the elements of grunge have been embraced by modern hipsters - turning a dirty unpolished expression of angst into a stylish and slightly pretencious statement about fashion, social standing and lifestyle and, personally, it's something i want to fully embrace and love to see out on the streets." Tahlia
To be honest this is the first time I have sat down and listened to any sort of grunge music and to be honest im not the biggest fan. Although I am not a fan of the grunge music I find the history of grunge interesting the fashion also. The fashion of checked shirts, ripped jeans and the cant be bothered look is a popular look and I was unaware after seeing this in the street numerous times that it linked to the grunge sub culture. So after researching grunge I feel I have learnt a great deal about a sub culture I knew existed but knew nothing about." Rebecca.
'When I was a kid, my sister and my brother listened to bands like Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Screeming Trees, they had the whole grunge look and I've been influence by it all my life because of this. It was easy for me to distinguish a grunge from another style but I never kind of knew why. This project helped me to know more about the history of grunge, the music, and the style." Lucia
"the grunge sub-culture has always been interesting to me, stemming mainly from the music after being introduced to Nirvana by a friend a while back. I've always had a rough understanding of the fashion that accompanies the scene but this project has led me to learn further how it influences the fashion industry in a big way. Having leading designers such as Marc Jacobs creating pieces which fit in with the scene is really interesting to me and the people within this group consider themselves anti-fashion. Some of my style icons such has Mary-Kate Olsen and Alice Dellal have also been associated with the grunge scene too which may explain my attraction to it. I'm looking forward to seeing how this sub-culture still fits in in 2011 and especially in london." Kerry
"I really love the way that people wear their clothes and how they look like..Also I can say that the history of grunge is really interesting and the history of fashion too.But to tell you the truth I don't like this kind of music so much, I like Nirvana but I am not so big fun of them..Through the years I can see that some designers they are still using these kind of style and mixing their clothes even in the fashion shows.Finally I believe that sometimes I do use some of their fashion tips and mix it with my style..However, in general I like grunge and I find it really interesting as a subculture.." Joanna
"I have never heard about GRUNGE subculture before researching it for a Generic Fashion project.
It was very interesting to know something new for me for example that inspirators of that subculture were Nirvana and vocalist Kurt Cobain, bands Sonic Youth and L7. That Marc Jacobs and Calvin Klein also using that style in their works. After the research I understood one thing that GRUNGE is returning now and lots and lots of young teenagers who like a new rebel style comparing it with GRUNGE.
Moreover grunge style clothes not so expensive they are comfortable and durable.
I can’t say that after research I became big fan of that subculture but I like it and I think that it has a right to exist." Jevgenijus
"Grunge fashion can be seen as just another anti-fashion - a trend brought into the mainstream by an over-indulged generation X backlashing against society. However, to me, original grunge epitomises the look people are still trying to achieve today - effortlessly cool. Even though it had short lived popularity as a subculture it has certainly imprinted itself into modern fashion in an interesting way. I grew up in the 90s listening to my older brother play grunge music like Nirvana, Pearl Jam and Stone Temple Pilots, a genre which has a lot more substance than the mass-produced dance and RnB that fills our charts today, its a shame that we don't have a subculture that's on par with grunge today." Julia
To be honest this is the first time I have sat down and listened to any sort of grunge music and to be honest im not the biggest fan. Although I am not a fan of the grunge music I find the history of grunge interesting the fashion also. The fashion of checked shirts, ripped jeans and the cant be bothered look is a popular look and I was unaware after seeing this in the street numerous times that it linked to the grunge sub culture. So after researching grunge I feel I have learnt a great deal about a sub culture I knew existed but knew nothing about." Rebecca.
'When I was a kid, my sister and my brother listened to bands like Nirvana, Pearl Jam, Screeming Trees, they had the whole grunge look and I've been influence by it all my life because of this. It was easy for me to distinguish a grunge from another style but I never kind of knew why. This project helped me to know more about the history of grunge, the music, and the style." Lucia
"the grunge sub-culture has always been interesting to me, stemming mainly from the music after being introduced to Nirvana by a friend a while back. I've always had a rough understanding of the fashion that accompanies the scene but this project has led me to learn further how it influences the fashion industry in a big way. Having leading designers such as Marc Jacobs creating pieces which fit in with the scene is really interesting to me and the people within this group consider themselves anti-fashion. Some of my style icons such has Mary-Kate Olsen and Alice Dellal have also been associated with the grunge scene too which may explain my attraction to it. I'm looking forward to seeing how this sub-culture still fits in in 2011 and especially in london." Kerry
"I really love the way that people wear their clothes and how they look like..Also I can say that the history of grunge is really interesting and the history of fashion too.But to tell you the truth I don't like this kind of music so much, I like Nirvana but I am not so big fun of them..Through the years I can see that some designers they are still using these kind of style and mixing their clothes even in the fashion shows.Finally I believe that sometimes I do use some of their fashion tips and mix it with my style..However, in general I like grunge and I find it really interesting as a subculture.." Joanna
"I have never heard about GRUNGE subculture before researching it for a Generic Fashion project.
It was very interesting to know something new for me for example that inspirators of that subculture were Nirvana and vocalist Kurt Cobain, bands Sonic Youth and L7. That Marc Jacobs and Calvin Klein also using that style in their works. After the research I understood one thing that GRUNGE is returning now and lots and lots of young teenagers who like a new rebel style comparing it with GRUNGE.
Moreover grunge style clothes not so expensive they are comfortable and durable.
I can’t say that after research I became big fan of that subculture but I like it and I think that it has a right to exist." Jevgenijus
"Grunge fashion can be seen as just another anti-fashion - a trend brought into the mainstream by an over-indulged generation X backlashing against society. However, to me, original grunge epitomises the look people are still trying to achieve today - effortlessly cool. Even though it had short lived popularity as a subculture it has certainly imprinted itself into modern fashion in an interesting way. I grew up in the 90s listening to my older brother play grunge music like Nirvana, Pearl Jam and Stone Temple Pilots, a genre which has a lot more substance than the mass-produced dance and RnB that fills our charts today, its a shame that we don't have a subculture that's on par with grunge today." Julia
GRUNGE- Fashion Shops
After researching how grunge began, I started to think about the link with fashion.
Grunge fashion was essentially a mix of punk ethic and outdoor wear. Hard, durable fabrics that didn't cost much and that you could wear for years. Essentially, the grunge look grew organically - there was no attempt to consciously come up with a style. The grunge look just grew into itself.
Layers, flannel shirts, anything plaid, tartan kilts, flowery cotton dresses, hoodies, ripped denim, baggy clothes, charity shop / thrift store clothes were their signature.
As the Grunge sub-culture values themselves on rebelling against fashion, discussing what sort of shops could relate to their group becomes difficult.
-B Store is one of them, okay that it isn't a charity shop or cheap, but it has flannel shirts, ripped jeans and baggy clothes!
-A second shop that sprang to my mind is Dover Street Market, specifically for their basement. This department stocks brands such as Supreme which are often related to Skate culture, however the line between these two styles is quite blurred in some aspects e.g. flannel shirts and bobble hats. Although these clothes are highly priced, they give off a feeling of "refined grunge" to me.
-Thirdly, the Urban Outfitters mens department is fitting. Their loose fitting tee's and "Renewal" section could be suitable for this type of style due to their bulky jackets and worn pieces.
This has shown that this Grunge look is now very commercial and easily available... so what makes you a real Grunger?
Grunge fashion was essentially a mix of punk ethic and outdoor wear. Hard, durable fabrics that didn't cost much and that you could wear for years. Essentially, the grunge look grew organically - there was no attempt to consciously come up with a style. The grunge look just grew into itself.
Layers, flannel shirts, anything plaid, tartan kilts, flowery cotton dresses, hoodies, ripped denim, baggy clothes, charity shop / thrift store clothes were their signature.
As the Grunge sub-culture values themselves on rebelling against fashion, discussing what sort of shops could relate to their group becomes difficult.
-B Store is one of them, okay that it isn't a charity shop or cheap, but it has flannel shirts, ripped jeans and baggy clothes!
-A second shop that sprang to my mind is Dover Street Market, specifically for their basement. This department stocks brands such as Supreme which are often related to Skate culture, however the line between these two styles is quite blurred in some aspects e.g. flannel shirts and bobble hats. Although these clothes are highly priced, they give off a feeling of "refined grunge" to me.
-Thirdly, the Urban Outfitters mens department is fitting. Their loose fitting tee's and "Renewal" section could be suitable for this type of style due to their bulky jackets and worn pieces.
This has shown that this Grunge look is now very commercial and easily available... so what makes you a real Grunger?
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